If you haven’t read MFK Fisher’s Two Towns in ProvenceI highly recommend it. One of the towns is Aix-en-Provence, a bustling, cheerful town that I’ve visited before. On this trip, my friends and I fortuitously landed at Fisher’s favorite restaurant, Les Deux Garçons, where she and her daughters dined regularly, watching the people rush by on the Cours Mirabeau.

The restaurant retains its old-school charm (with a bit of reticent snobbery too, I believe), and is still a great perch for people-watching.